Underneath Hanfu, layers like Zhongyi (150-300g lightweight cotton or silk), Hezi (100-200g chest wraps for support), and Kuzhe (200-400g trousers for modesty) are common. For winter, padded linings increase warmth retention by 15-20%. Choose breathable cotton or linen for summer comfort and wash delicate silk by hand for longevity.
Zhongyi (中衣)
Zhongyi is the
inner garment that goes inside one's
Hanfu. It is one of the most indispensable components of traditional
Chinese costume and plays the double role of being pragmatic and aesthetic in providing comfort and preventing outer layer clothes from getting wetted by
sweat or
oils. It is made of breathable
fabrics,
cotton, or
silk, which may be thicker or thinner to fit the occasion or climate. A lightweight cotton Zhongyi can weigh around
150 grams and has very good suitability for
summer wear, while a thicker silk Zhongyi can weigh upwards of
300 grams and provides good
insulation for colder seasons.
Day-to-day wear for Zhongyi means it allows for adequate
moisture absorption. The capabilities of Zhongyi in cotton are to absorb upwards of
27 times its weight in
water, which makes this particular fabric an important one to wear during
humid seasons or when
outdoors. Compared to that, the silk Zhongyi is
luxurious but less absorbent, holding only about
11% of its weight. This makes silk Zhongyi more suitable to use in
dry areas or for very
formal events where appearance is paramount. It would also be worn under Hanfu for a
wedding ceremony to make the line smooth and nice and also reduce the look of
wrinkles or
bunched-up fabric.
Another aspect of practicality is related to
layering. A well-fitted cotton Zhongyi with a brushed lining can help reduce the need for bulkier outer layers during colder weather. In fact, tests have shown that
two layers of cotton Zhongyi under a
Shenyi are sufficient to retain
body heat equivalent to an added layer of outer robes, actually cutting down overall weight by as much as
500 grams. Not only does it allow greater range of motion, but it also preserves the
flowing aesthetic of traditional Hanfu. While in summer, a
sleeveless Zhongyi weighing less than
120 grams cools the body without giving up the structure of an outer Hanfu.
Durability and
maintenance of Zhongyi are also important. A decent-quality silk Zhongyi costs
$80 and, with proper maintenance, is able to serve more than
five years. Hand-washing in
cold water and putting into a breathable fabric bag can extend the service life by more than
30%. Compared to that, Cotton Zhongyi falls in the price range of
$20-$50. It is relatively easy to clean and maintain, although it is common for it to have a slight
shrinkage after frequent washes, usually under
5 percent, which can also be mitigated by
preshrinking treatments in its manufacturing process. The right Zhongyi material for proper care routine directly influences comfort and
longevity of the Hanfu ensemble.
Liren (裲裆)
Liren is one kind of sleeveless and fitted undergarment used in Hanfu. It is very important for supporting the outline of traditional costumes. This garment is generally made from silk, linen, or other high-quality cotton fabrics; it bridges the inner layer-the Zhongyi-and the outer robes. Its close-fitting provides support and structure to the body and helps in smooth draping of the outer clothes. A typical Liren weighs around 200-300 grams, just enough to be lightweight yet firm for its purpose: that of shaping forms.
The design of Liren is especially fit for
layering. It helps prevent outer robes from
shifting during the
movement-an important feature during
ceremonial dancing or prolonged
rituals. According to the annals, during the
Tang dynasty, a silk Liren was worn commonly by
noble women, costing about
20 silver taels at that time, which is almost equal to several months' wages of an ordinary
artisan. That means the costume could be both a
utilitarian and a
luxury article at the same time. While plain people were able to wear
cotton or
hemp ones, which were more accessible at about
2-3 silver taels.
The second important aspect of Liren is its
practicality. Such as, wearing a cotton Liren under the
Shenyi not only gives more structure to the robe but can add much
warmth. A properly constructed cotton Liren traps a layer of
air in between the body and the outer garment, reducing the loss of heat by as much as
15 percent compared to wearing just a
Zhongyi. For warmer climates,
linen Liren is common, as it absorbs
moisture well and dries quickly. Research into
fabric properties illustrates that linen is effective in
wicking moisture, ideally up to
40% more than cotton. This makes it perfect for
summer Hanfu assemblies or
outdoor gatherings.
The
durability and
longevity of Liren are determined by the
materials and
care practices involved. While a
silk Liren would be more costly, at around
$60-100, its lifespan may actually be as long as
8 years with proper
maintenance. The former includes avoiding exposure to
direct sun rays and washing in
cold water with
pH-neutral detergents.
Cotton Liren is cheaper, but the
colors may bleach after
30-40 washes.
Linen Liren mostly costs the same as cotton but is more
durable-it can withstand over
50 washes without losing its
shape. These factors make the choice of
Liren material very critical depending on one's
needs and
frequencies of wearing Hanfu.
Kuzhe (裤褶)
Kuzhe is a kind of traditional
trousers or
bloomers worn under
Hanfu, reflecting
comfort,
modesty, and practical
layering. These are made of
cotton,
silk, and
linen materials, designed to accommodate the different styles of Hanfu so that one can make smooth
movements while still being
elegant in the outerwear of the attire. The weight of a standard Kuzhe is between
250-400 grams, according to the
material and
design applied, while the length can vary from above the middle of the
thigh up to the
ankle, according to the
climate and
occasion it will serve.
Functionality-wise, Kuzhe serves as an indispensable means of
comfort in performing activities that require
flexibility, such as in
ritual dances or when demonstrating certain forms of
martial arts. For example,
linen Kuzhe can allow full freedom of movement for the legs with high
breathability. Elastic and air permeability experiments on fabrics have provided a difference of
30% heat retention between linen trousers and silk, which would make them good to go for
summer events. The
Silk Kuzhe is softer and finer in
completion and thus very ideal for
formal occasions. Good quality silk Kuzhe can retail between
80 to 120 dollars, while those made of
cotton or
linen are relatively cheaper, falling between
20 to 50 dollars.
The
practicality of Kuzhe can be further extended to its
layering. In skirts of the
Mamianqun type, women wear, Kuzhe prevents
exposure by accident and is used as an added layer for extra
warmth. Tests show that up to
20% increase in thermal
insulation could be provided by wearing a pair of mid-weight
cotton Kuzhe under a skirt; thus, there is reduced need for additional outer layers in cooler weather. Similarly, longer Kuzhe is worn for men in
Shenyi or
Changshan, which entirely covers the body under these flowing robes to avoid spoiling the
orthodox garment appearance of it when in
movement.
Besides,
durability and ease of
maintenance make Kuzhe a practical choice for today's
Hanfu wearers. Though
cotton Kuzhe is easy to care for, repeated washing causes it to shrink
3-5% in size.
Linen Kuzhe is as expensive as cotton but much
stronger; it can resist more than
50 cycles of wash without significant deterioration, if allowed to
air-dry and store properly. The
silk Kuzhe, although
luxurious, are more
sensitive and need
hand-washing with
mild detergents, kept out of
sunlight to avoid
discolorations. For all the extra upkeep, a well-cared-for
silk kuzhe will last as long as
8 years and be well worth it in a
ceremonial or
formal context.
Dudan (肚兜)
Dudan is a type of traditional
Chinese undergarment, fastening the body like a
halter or
apron, taking a
practical and
symbolic purpose in the
Hanfu ensemble. Traditionally, Dudan was worn by both
men and
women, but from later
dynasties onward, it was gradually replaced by wearing Dudan more broadly on
women. The fabrics are mostly in
silk or
cotton; Dudan is light and weighs about
150 to 300 grams, dependent on different
fabrics and
decoration. Because of its
design, it ties at the
neck and around the
waist to keep it securely in place without constricting
movement.
Generally, Dudan is worn for reasons of
modesty and for
warmth. For example, a Dudan made of
silk is a very insulating one since silk naturally provides good
thermal insulation. It has been documented that silk can absorb
38% of its weight in
moisture without feeling wet and, therefore, the Dudan is very useful in
humid climates. This also helps avoid the outer
Hanfu from getting
sweat marks. On the other side,
cotton Dudan is a lot cheaper and more accessible within the market range of
$20-$50, while
silk ones span between
$80 and $120. In
cold weather, quilted or padded Dudan can serve as an extra layer to keep you warm, which you would not need heavier
outerwear for.
Dudan also has its
cultural and
aesthetic values. These
embroideries often feature
flowers,
animals, or
auspicious symbols that raise the silk Dudan from their plain undergarment status. Records of such Dudan, as early as the
Ming dynasty, show exquisitely
embroidered examples given as
wedding garments for
protection and
fertility. Such decorative examples, of course made by
hand, could take
40 hours to complete and were worth several
silver taels, thus making them
heirlooms. Most of the modern reproductions include
machine embroidery, which cuts production costs and makes them
cheaper and more available.
Durability and
care are of prime importance for Dudan.
Silk Dudan requires cautious care; improper washing makes fibers fragile.
Hand washing with
mild detergents allows Dudan to live more than
five years.
Cotton Dudan is easier to clean but can slightly
shrink after
5-10 washes unless
pre-shrinking during manufacturing is performed.
Linen Dudan is less common but offers a compromise between
durability and
breathability, which can outlast
50 or more washes without significant
wear. A common wearer of
Hanfu would have several Dudan in different
materials to prepare for any
season or
occasion.
Zhongqun (中裙)
Zhongqun, popularly known as an
inner skirt, makes for one of the integral layers of traditional
Hanfu garments, which are worn under outer garments like
Mamianqun or
Ruqun. Most of the time, these Zhongqun are made from light
fabrics like
cotton,
silk, or
linen to help add
modesty,
comfort, and
flow to the attire.
Material depending, a typical Zhongqun weighs between
200 to 400 grams. It is designed to reach
mid-calf or
ankle length, not too bulky while providing adequate
covering.
Zhongqun serves to retain
modesty and protect the
outer garments. If a semi-transparent silk
Mamianqun is worn underneath as an undergarment layer, a simple light-colored
cotton Zhongqun will ensure that one's outer outfit is decent enough for
public exposure.
Cotton Zhongqun costs anywhere between
$20 to $50, and since it is relatively
cheap, besides allowing good
breathing, it is popular
casual wear. The
Silk Zhongqun is priced between
$80 to $150 and adds
class to this traditional Zhongqun, hence perfect for
formal occasions. Silk's natural
sheen also complements well the
flow of Hanfu skirts and enhances the
aesthetic appeal of the whole ensemble.
Zhongqun also plays a quite
practical role in
colder weather. A thick-cotton or quilted Zhongqun alone reduces the loss of
body heat by up to
20%, making it worth wearing under any
winter outfit of Hanfu. Some research into the
thermal insulation of Hanfu shows that a layer of Zhongqun underneath
Mamianqun provides similar amounts of
warmth as when one is wearing
thermal leggings, with the added advantage of maintaining a traditional
silhouette. For those who live in
colder regions, there are available
padded Zhongqun weighing about
500 grams each that can be worn with thicker
Zhongyi for maximum
comfort.
The foremost things to take into consideration when choosing a Zhongqun are
durability and
maintenance.
Cotton Zhongqun is very easy to wash and is resistant to
wear and tear but shrinks about
3-5% after repeated washing, unless treated beforehand.
Linen Zhongqun are more
expensive but can withstand more than
50 washes with minimal wear and tear and allows for good
ventilation during
hot seasons.
Silk Zhongqun requires very
tender care, such as
hand washing in
cold water and using special
detergents to prevent fibers from getting
damaged. Properly taken care of,
silk Zhongqun is
durable enough to survive beyond
five years. If one wears
Hanfu regularly, they are well worth the
investment.
Mamianqun Lining (马面裙内衬)
Mamianqun lining is worn underneath the
horse-face skirt, a classic type of
Hanfu, and it has
practical and
aesthetic uses within traditional garb. These
linings for
comfort and
aesthetics in the Mamianqun are usually made of
light and
smooth fabrics, including
cotton,
silk, or
blended ones. It weighs between
150 and 300 grams depending on the used
material and is made with much care so as not to interfere with the natural
pleats and
folds of the outer skirt.
One of the principal purposes of the Mamianqun lining is to maintain
modesty. Traditional Mamianqun styles feature decorative
pleats and
slits that might prove too revealing during any
movement or
breezy conditions. Because a lining of
cotton or
silk is going to guarantee an
opaque layer, thus enabling
privacy without
bulkiness. Offering a
luxurious feel,
silk lining usually costs in the range of
$50-$120, and high-end Mamianqun skirts perfectly complement it. The
cotton lining, though, is superior in quality for
coverage and
durability, the price range starting from
$20 to $40, perfect for
daily wear or
casual events.
The lining further provides
comfort by eliminating
friction between the Mamianqun and the human body. In cases where proper lining is absent, rougher textures of outer
fabrics or
embroideries can be particularly disturbing in the case of extended wear.
Fabric smoothness studies indicate that
silk linings reduce
friction up to
60% compared to
unlined Mamianqun skirts, which turn them into ideal attires either for
formal events or for
long ceremonies.
Outdoor activities or
warmer climates call for lightweight
cotton or
linen linings that weigh under
200 grams due to the fact that they wick
moisture away from the skin and allow better
air circulation.
In
colder weather, a thicker lining can also provide
insulation.
Quilted linings, weighing about
400 to 500 grams, trap a layer of warm
air between the body and the outer skirt. Linings like these have been tested to retain
warmth by
15-20%, thereby reducing the need to wear extra
thermal wear. For this reason, they become super
hot in northern regions or during
winter festivals. Those looking for
versatility will find satisfaction in linings made from a mixture of
cotton and
polyester for both
warmth and
breathability. They strike a balance between
functionality and
affordability, normally costing in the range of
$30 to $60.
Hezi (诃子)
Hezi is an essential
undergarment that is put on underneath
Hanfu, which helps in
outlining, fixing the garment in the right place, and enhancing
modesty in them. Characteristically
rectangular in shape, the piece of cloth is wrapped around the
chest and usually comes in
cotton,
silk, or
linen. The average weight of a
Hezi is around
100-200 grams, supposed to be light yet substantial enough to provide adequate
support and
cover to the upper body.
Their primary purpose is to maintain proper
drape and
fit of the Hanfu garment.
Silk Hezi, for example, costs around
$50 to $100 and provides a
smooth surface where outer layers do not cling uncomfortably to the body. This will be more useful when
Ruqun or
Shenyi is worn because Hezi can retain the original flowing
elegance of the robes. The
Cotton Hezi allows for better
breathing and, compared to other
Hezis, is
inexpensive, costing between
$15 to $40. It is ideal to use
day in and day out or during
warm seasons where comfort will take precedence over
luxury.
More than a form of
shaping, Hezi served as an added
security to traditional Hanfu attire with
loose designs. To illustrate, it secures any
Beizi or
Daxiushan during wear, hence providing an
anchor that is snug and does not shift or fall while one
moves. Tests have shown that tying a
Hezi can reduce
adjustments of Hanfu garments up to
30%. Thus, Hezi indeed is convenient
equipment to be worn during long
ceremonies or
performances. In addition,
linen Hezi, which absorbs
moisture 40% faster than cotton, is ideal wear for individuals who need to move around a lot during
festivals or who perform
traditional dances.
Hezi provides additional
warmth during
cold weather.
Quilted or
padded Hezi can weigh around
300 grams and thus serve as
insulation to warm up the body. Tests indicate that a quilted or padded
Hezi may raise the retention of
body warmth as high as
15%, thus turning it into a very
practical choice for Hanfu worn during
winter. In their more modern versions,
adjustable straps or
elastic bands add
versatility to provide ease in wear for people of most
sizes. These changes make
Hezi more accessible to modern fans of
Hanfu without losing the
traditional feel.