Underneath Hanfu, layers like Zhongyi (150-300g lightweight cotton or silk), Hezi (100-200g chest wraps for support), and Kuzhe (200-400g trousers for modesty) are common. For winter, padded linings increase warmth retention by 15-20%. Choose breathable cotton or linen for summer comfort and wash delicate silk by hand for longevity.
Zhongyi (中衣)
Zhongyi is the inner garment that goes inside one’s Hanfu. It is one of the most indispensable components of traditional Chinese costume and plays the double role of being pragmatic and aesthetic in providing comfort and preventing outer layer clothes from getting wetted by sweat or oils. It is made of breathable fabrics, cotton, or silk, which may be thicker or thinner to fit the occasion or climate. A lightweight cotton Zhongyi can weigh around 150 grams and has very good suitability for summer wear, while a thicker silk Zhongyi can weigh upwards of 300 grams and provides good insulation for colder seasons.
Day-to-day wear for Zhongyi means it allows for adequate moisture absorption. The capabilities of Zhongyi in cotton are to absorb upwards of 27 times its weight in water, which makes this particular fabric an important one to wear during humid seasons or when outdoors. Compared to that, the silk Zhongyi is luxurious but less absorbent, holding only about 11% of its weight. This makes silk Zhongyi more suitable to use in dry areas or for very formal events where appearance is paramount. It would also be worn under Hanfu for a wedding ceremony to make the line smooth and nice and also reduce the look of wrinkles or bunched-up fabric.
Another aspect of practicality is related to layering. A well-fitted cotton Zhongyi with a brushed lining can help reduce the need for bulkier outer layers during colder weather. In fact, tests have shown that two layers of cotton Zhongyi under a Shenyi are sufficient to retain body heat equivalent to an added layer of outer robes, actually cutting down overall weight by as much as 500 grams. Not only does it allow greater range of motion, but it also preserves the flowing aesthetic of traditional Hanfu. While in summer, a sleeveless Zhongyi weighing less than 120 grams cools the body without giving up the structure of an outer Hanfu.
Durability and maintenance of Zhongyi are also important. A decent-quality silk Zhongyi costs $80 and, with proper maintenance, is able to serve more than five years. Hand-washing in cold water and putting into a breathable fabric bag can extend the service life by more than 30%. Compared to that, Cotton Zhongyi falls in the price range of $20-$50. It is relatively easy to clean and maintain, although it is common for it to have a slight shrinkage after frequent washes, usually under 5 percent, which can also be mitigated by preshrinking treatments in its manufacturing process. The right Zhongyi material for proper care routine directly influences comfort and longevity of the Hanfu ensemble.
Liren (裲裆)
The design of Liren is especially fit for layering. It helps prevent outer robes from shifting during the movement-an important feature during ceremonial dancing or prolonged rituals. According to the annals, during the Tang dynasty, a silk Liren was worn commonly by noble women, costing about 20 silver taels at that time, which is almost equal to several months’ wages of an ordinary artisan. That means the costume could be both a utilitarian and a luxury article at the same time. While plain people were able to wear cotton or hemp ones, which were more accessible at about 2-3 silver taels.
The second important aspect of Liren is its practicality. Such as, wearing a cotton Liren under the Shenyi not only gives more structure to the robe but can add much warmth. A properly constructed cotton Liren traps a layer of air in between the body and the outer garment, reducing the loss of heat by as much as 15 percent compared to wearing just a Zhongyi. For warmer climates, linen Liren is common, as it absorbs moisture well and dries quickly. Research into fabric properties illustrates that linen is effective in wicking moisture, ideally up to 40% more than cotton. This makes it perfect for summer Hanfu assemblies or outdoor gatherings.
The durability and longevity of Liren are determined by the materials and care practices involved. While a silk Liren would be more costly, at around $60-100, its lifespan may actually be as long as 8 years with proper maintenance. The former includes avoiding exposure to direct sun rays and washing in cold water with pH-neutral detergents. Cotton Liren is cheaper, but the colors may bleach after 30-40 washes. Linen Liren mostly costs the same as cotton but is more durable-it can withstand over 50 washes without losing its shape. These factors make the choice of Liren material very critical depending on one’s needs and frequencies of wearing Hanfu.
Kuzhe (裤褶)
Kuzhe is a kind of traditional trousers or bloomers worn under Hanfu, reflecting comfort, modesty, and practical layering. These are made of cotton, silk, and linen materials, designed to accommodate the different styles of Hanfu so that one can make smooth movements while still being elegant in the outerwear of the attire. The weight of a standard Kuzhe is between 250-400 grams, according to the material and design applied, while the length can vary from above the middle of the thigh up to the ankle, according to the climate and occasion it will serve.
Functionality-wise, Kuzhe serves as an indispensable means of comfort in performing activities that require flexibility, such as in ritual dances or when demonstrating certain forms of martial arts. For example, linen Kuzhe can allow full freedom of movement for the legs with high breathability. Elastic and air permeability experiments on fabrics have provided a difference of 30% heat retention between linen trousers and silk, which would make them good to go for summer events. The Silk Kuzhe is softer and finer in completion and thus very ideal for formal occasions. Good quality silk Kuzhe can retail between 80 to 120 dollars, while those made of cotton or linen are relatively cheaper, falling between 20 to 50 dollars.
The practicality of Kuzhe can be further extended to its layering. In skirts of the Mamianqun type, women wear, Kuzhe prevents exposure by accident and is used as an added layer for extra warmth. Tests show that up to 20% increase in thermal insulation could be provided by wearing a pair of mid-weight cotton Kuzhe under a skirt; thus, there is reduced need for additional outer layers in cooler weather. Similarly, longer Kuzhe is worn for men in Shenyi or Changshan, which entirely covers the body under these flowing robes to avoid spoiling the orthodox garment appearance of it when in movement.
Besides, durability and ease of maintenance make Kuzhe a practical choice for today’s Hanfu wearers. Though cotton Kuzhe is easy to care for, repeated washing causes it to shrink 3-5% in size. Linen Kuzhe is as expensive as cotton but much stronger; it can resist more than 50 cycles of wash without significant deterioration, if allowed to air-dry and store properly. The silk Kuzhe, although luxurious, are more sensitive and need hand-washing with mild detergents, kept out of sunlight to avoid discolorations. For all the extra upkeep, a well-cared-for silk kuzhe will last as long as 8 years and be well worth it in a ceremonial or formal context.
Dudan (肚兜)
Dudan is a type of traditional Chinese undergarment, fastening the body like a halter or apron, taking a practical and symbolic purpose in the Hanfu ensemble. Traditionally, Dudan was worn by both men and women, but from later dynasties onward, it was gradually replaced by wearing Dudan more broadly on women. The fabrics are mostly in silk or cotton; Dudan is light and weighs about 150 to 300 grams, dependent on different fabrics and decoration. Because of its design, it ties at the neck and around the waist to keep it securely in place without constricting movement.
Generally, Dudan is worn for reasons of modesty and for warmth. For example, a Dudan made of silk is a very insulating one since silk naturally provides good thermal insulation. It has been documented that silk can absorb 38% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet and, therefore, the Dudan is very useful in humid climates. This also helps avoid the outer Hanfu from getting sweat marks. On the other side, cotton Dudan is a lot cheaper and more accessible within the market range of $20-$50, while silk ones span between $80 and $120. In cold weather, quilted or padded Dudan can serve as an extra layer to keep you warm, which you would not need heavier outerwear for.
Dudan also has its cultural and aesthetic values. These embroideries often feature flowers, animals, or auspicious symbols that raise the silk Dudan from their plain undergarment status. Records of such Dudan, as early as the Ming dynasty, show exquisitely embroidered examples given as wedding garments for protection and fertility. Such decorative examples, of course made by hand, could take 40 hours to complete and were worth several silver taels, thus making them heirlooms. Most of the modern reproductions include machine embroidery, which cuts production costs and makes them cheaper and more available.
Durability and care are of prime importance for Dudan. Silk Dudan requires cautious care; improper washing makes fibers fragile. Hand washing with mild detergents allows Dudan to live more than five years. Cotton Dudan is easier to clean but can slightly shrink after 5-10 washes unless pre-shrinking during manufacturing is performed. Linen Dudan is less common but offers a compromise between durability and breathability, which can outlast 50 or more washes without significant wear. A common wearer of Hanfu would have several Dudan in different materials to prepare for any season or occasion.
Zhongqun (中裙)
Zhongqun, popularly known as an inner skirt, makes for one of the integral layers of traditional Hanfu garments, which are worn under outer garments like Mamianqun or Ruqun. Most of the time, these Zhongqun are made from light fabrics like cotton, silk, or linen to help add modesty, comfort, and flow to the attire. Material depending, a typical Zhongqun weighs between 200 to 400 grams. It is designed to reach mid-calf or ankle length, not too bulky while providing adequate covering.
Zhongqun serves to retain modesty and protect the outer garments. If a semi-transparent silk Mamianqun is worn underneath as an undergarment layer, a simple light-colored cotton Zhongqun will ensure that one’s outer outfit is decent enough for public exposure. Cotton Zhongqun costs anywhere between $20 to $50, and since it is relatively cheap, besides allowing good breathing, it is popular casual wear. The Silk Zhongqun is priced between $80 to $150 and adds class to this traditional Zhongqun, hence perfect for formal occasions. Silk’s natural sheen also complements well the flow of Hanfu skirts and enhances the aesthetic appeal of the whole ensemble.
Zhongqun also plays a quite practical role in colder weather. A thick-cotton or quilted Zhongqun alone reduces the loss of body heat by up to 20%, making it worth wearing under any winter outfit of Hanfu. Some research into the thermal insulation of Hanfu shows that a layer of Zhongqun underneath Mamianqun provides similar amounts of warmth as when one is wearing thermal leggings, with the added advantage of maintaining a traditional silhouette. For those who live in colder regions, there are available padded Zhongqun weighing about 500 grams each that can be worn with thicker Zhongyi for maximum comfort.
The foremost things to take into consideration when choosing a Zhongqun are durability and maintenance. Cotton Zhongqun is very easy to wash and is resistant to wear and tear but shrinks about 3-5% after repeated washing, unless treated beforehand. Linen Zhongqun are more expensive but can withstand more than 50 washes with minimal wear and tear and allows for good ventilation during hot seasons. Silk Zhongqun requires very tender care, such as hand washing in cold water and using special detergents to prevent fibers from getting damaged. Properly taken care of, silk Zhongqun is durable enough to survive beyond five years. If one wears Hanfu regularly, they are well worth the investment.
Mamianqun Lining (马面裙内衬)
Mamianqun lining is worn underneath the horse-face skirt, a classic type of Hanfu, and it has practical and aesthetic uses within traditional garb. These linings for comfort and aesthetics in the Mamianqun are usually made of light and smooth fabrics, including cotton, silk, or blended ones. It weighs between 150 and 300 grams depending on the used material and is made with much care so as not to interfere with the natural pleats and folds of the outer skirt.
One of the principal purposes of the Mamianqun lining is to maintain modesty. Traditional Mamianqun styles feature decorative pleats and slits that might prove too revealing during any movement or breezy conditions. Because a lining of cotton or silk is going to guarantee an opaque layer, thus enabling privacy without bulkiness. Offering a luxurious feel, silk lining usually costs in the range of $50-$120, and high-end Mamianqun skirts perfectly complement it. The cotton lining, though, is superior in quality for coverage and durability, the price range starting from $20 to $40, perfect for daily wear or casual events.
The lining further provides comfort by eliminating friction between the Mamianqun and the human body. In cases where proper lining is absent, rougher textures of outer fabrics or embroideries can be particularly disturbing in the case of extended wear. Fabric smoothness studies indicate that silk linings reduce friction up to 60% compared to unlined Mamianqun skirts, which turn them into ideal attires either for formal events or for long ceremonies. Outdoor activities or warmer climates call for lightweight cotton or linen linings that weigh under 200 grams due to the fact that they wick moisture away from the skin and allow better air circulation.
In colder weather, a thicker lining can also provide insulation. Quilted linings, weighing about 400 to 500 grams, trap a layer of warm air between the body and the outer skirt. Linings like these have been tested to retain warmth by 15-20%, thereby reducing the need to wear extra thermal wear. For this reason, they become super hot in northern regions or during winter festivals. Those looking for versatility will find satisfaction in linings made from a mixture of cotton and polyester for both warmth and breathability. They strike a balance between functionality and affordability, normally costing in the range of $30 to $60.
Hezi (诃子)
Hezi is an essential undergarment that is put on underneath Hanfu, which helps in outlining, fixing the garment in the right place, and enhancing modesty in them. Characteristically rectangular in shape, the piece of cloth is wrapped around the chest and usually comes in cotton, silk, or linen. The average weight of a Hezi is around 100-200 grams, supposed to be light yet substantial enough to provide adequate support and cover to the upper body.
Their primary purpose is to maintain proper drape and fit of the Hanfu garment. Silk Hezi, for example, costs around $50 to $100 and provides a smooth surface where outer layers do not cling uncomfortably to the body. This will be more useful when Ruqun or Shenyi is worn because Hezi can retain the original flowing elegance of the robes. The Cotton Hezi allows for better breathing and, compared to other Hezis, is inexpensive, costing between $15 to $40. It is ideal to use day in and day out or during warm seasons where comfort will take precedence over luxury.
More than a form of shaping, Hezi served as an added security to traditional Hanfu attire with loose designs. To illustrate, it secures any Beizi or Daxiushan during wear, hence providing an anchor that is snug and does not shift or fall while one moves. Tests have shown that tying a Hezi can reduce adjustments of Hanfu garments up to 30%. Thus, Hezi indeed is convenient equipment to be worn during long ceremonies or performances. In addition, linen Hezi, which absorbs moisture 40% faster than cotton, is ideal wear for individuals who need to move around a lot during festivals or who perform traditional dances.
Hezi provides additional warmth during cold weather. Quilted or padded Hezi can weigh around 300 grams and thus serve as insulation to warm up the body. Tests indicate that a quilted or padded Hezi may raise the retention of body warmth as high as 15%, thus turning it into a very practical choice for Hanfu worn during winter. In their more modern versions, adjustable straps or elastic bands add versatility to provide ease in wear for people of most sizes. These changes make Hezi more accessible to modern fans of Hanfu without losing the traditional feel.
